To stay in Indonesia for more than 30 days, I had to get a government cultural/volunteer visa. This meant I needed to do some volunteer work. They wanted me to teach English at first, but I knew how unqualified I am to do that. So when I heard they needed help to plant mangroves, that was something I knew I could do to fulfill the volunteering requirement. A time was scheduled to pick me up and go out to the mangroves. I collected my needed gear and waited for my pick-up by Samar. I waited an hour and eventually had someone give him a call for me. He is basically a space cadet and not very responsible. He said, “Yes, I’ll be there.” Forty-five minutes later, he finally was. We drove out to the mangroves, turning down a narrow road which led towards the ocean. We passed a boat-building shop using fiberglass and resin which surprised me, and then an area with piles of coconut shells and men sitting and cutting the coconuts in half before cutting out the coconut meat and setting it onto a drying rack. It actually had a rancid smell as we passed by.
I asked Samar, “What are they doing?” He said, “They make coconut oil.”
At the next business we passed there were men making concert blocks. There are a lot of small home businesses making concrete blocks all over the island. Some of which are very intricate.
We parked in front of a fenced-in area where cows were hanging out. Nothing for them to eat that I could see, but there was water for them. This was right beside a white beach, and the area where the mangroves were growing.
My first thought was, “It’s high tide. We can’t plant now.” And as soon as I’d thought it, Samar said just that.
“Damn….”, I thought. Then I said, “Well, show me your nursery where the seedlings are.”
We walked past the cows, spread the barbed-wire fence enough to squeeze through, and locked the supposed gate behind us. It’s a good thing I’m somewhat comfortable around cows because they came right up to us. By then I was wondering, “Where the hell are these mangrove seedlings?”
On the other side of the back fenced-in area was brackish, muddy water: basically a dumping grounds. Once again, I thought, “I don’t see anything over there.” Then Samar pointed to the other side of the fence where there was—to some extent—a field, and a pile of palm fronds. Look closely on the far left corner of photo you’ll see the palm fronds.
He walked to the back side of the fence where we ducked down between the barbed-wire again and stepped into the muddy muck, trying to step on rocks and boards and whatever else we could find to use as stepping stones. I had mud booties on, but he had dress shoes. It got to the point where we couldn’t go any further, so we turned around and headed back. All this time, I was just thinking, “What the hell is this guy doing?” …But not saying it because I was trying to be nice and a good sport about it all.
When I turned around and looked up, I realized that all these people were watching us, probably wondering what we were doing? They pointed to the shore line close to where we parked the car, while saying something is Indonesian. We backed out of the murky mud, walked past the cows, (who were probably also wondering what we are up to) squeezed through the barbed-wire gate, past the car, and discovered there was an opening next to the beach that we could walk right through. We did just that. Why Samar did not know that I have no idea.
Now we were on the beach… walking through garbage. Yes, garbage. It was disgusting. Finally, we made it to the field I had noticed, and walked through that to what I thought was just a pile of palm fronds. No, not fronds; this was his nursery. Probably a 4 by 5 foot space. The palm fronds were the walls of this little enclosure. One side was down, so I knelt down and looked inside. Sure enough, there were mangrove seedlings in there and they looked pretty healthy… except for the ones the goats had gotten to. I had many questions and suggestions as I helped him rebuild the side that was down.
When we were walking away, a friend of Samar’s came up to us, greeting me with a kind smile. The three of us walked back to the beach where I had to bring up the subject of all the garbage. We talked about it for a long time and I got them thinking. They showed disapproval of it also.
This was the beginning of my garbage quest. But I never did contribute to my volunteer commitment planting mangroves.
Meeting 4 wonderful people
A few weeks ago, I noticed a poster at the hotel where we were staying. Not knowing what the advertisement said, I asked at the front desk.
“It is a fashion show, with concentration on traditional Batik” I was told.
Batik is HUGE in Indonesia. There are large stores everywhere carrying different designer fashions. Each providence has their own traditional batik. The men take advantage of this style and they all wear batik shirts. I saw so many I was astonished by it all. Stewart bought 4 shirts for himself. Women wear batik dress, skirts, pants and blouses. I didn’t have much luck finding any pre made batik that fit or that I liked but I ended up purchasing fabric. I was curious of this fashion show. So, I decided to go. Stewart was not interested which was fine with me.
When I arrived, I sat in the back, but one of the managers at the hotel suggested I sit in the front. I told him I was comfortable in the back, but when I stood up to take photos, he approached me again and said they wanted me to sit up front. He actually grabbed my bag and requested I follow him.
I really didn’t want to walk to the front because everyone will notice me due to the fact I have white hair and white skin. I really stick out. I didn’t want to interrupt the fashion show.
He sat me next to three young people; one was wearing a crown, and the other two wore ribbons across their chests. The judges’ table was next to us. I was embarrassed, a little. The fashion show was focused on traditional batik fashion. In Indonesia, each region has their own traditional batik. The fabrics were so nice, and the styles were so interesting. Sadly, my camera ran out of batteries. At different times, the models and judges came to my table asking for photos and who was I and where am I from. During a break, a famous female singer was on stage singing and the very young girl models went up on stage to dance with her.
At one point, one of the female judges (the commentator) came to my table, took my hands and pulled me up, asking me to dance with her. Everyone was watching, so I got up and started dancing. The next thing I knew, I was on the stage dancing with her and the famous singer! As soon as the music was over, I ran off the stage and back to my seat. This lovely lady’s name is Fitrah. Then, acting as the commentator, she was on stage speaking Indonesian when I heard her say in English, “We thank Ruby from the USA for being our honored guest.” Well I thought I was just a guest at the hotel and that was it. When the awards were handed out and everyone was gathering their things, I headed back to my hotel room, laughing and enjoying the evening. But kept saying to myself I’m a guest at the hotel not an honored guest.
A few days later, Stewart and I went to the hotel pool to take a dip and Fitrah and some of the young band members, Koko (another judge) and Ardian Idhan who is in the Batik business were all there from the fashion show. They recognized me and we all began to talk. Fitrah just graduated from the university. She studied tourism and is a tour ambassador. She speaks excellent English. Koko lectures at the university in the Department of Marketing. We made arrangements for them to show us around the island. That same evening, Fitrah, Ardian and Koko came by the hotel when we were having dinner. At the fashion show Ardian was the person running around well dressed telling everyone what to do. Ardian gave us two pieces of traditional batik fabric from Ternate, in my favorite colors. I was surprised and honored to receive such a gift and plan to make something for Stewart and myself.
Koko is a gentle soul, soft spoken man with a lot to share. He teaches 6 days a week and works with Fitrah on community events and works with young teens. Fitrah has a sparkle in her eyes, speaks excellent english and is very active in her community, the city of Ternate. She is also working with young teens and is an ambassador of tourism for the city. She and Koko do commentaries for festivals.
Saturday morning Koko and Fitrah picked us up and took us up on the mount Gamalama where we could see a vista view of the Island of Tidore. Ternate is a close 45 minute boat ride to Tidore. There is a volcano on Tidore that mimics Gamalama on Ternate. There was a swing that hangs over the cliff that people can pay a small fee to do. At this location one of 2 lakes on the island is a part of the vista view. The fish farm I mentioned a few blogs back.
They took us past the university campus were they work and then to a sight were there is a grove of clove trees.
We then went onto the back side of the mountain and had another visited to the green lake. This is a great view of the volcano.The story has it that there are white alligators in the lake. Still today people say they see them on Fridays.
I almost laughed when I heard that, instead I asked how does the alligator now when it’s Friday to come up? And got a pretty good laugh on that one. There is a lot of superstitious about the lake and for many it is sacral. I have now been told the story of how the lake turned green.
In the photo of the village you can see the steam coming up from the volcano
On the back side of the volcano and Ternate are these small villages one village has a primo view of the volcano. An interesting little area outside of Ternate. Our day of seeing the sights was a day to get to know each other and by the time they dropped us of I was tired.
This was the beginning of our relationship with these folks, and we’ve spent a number of days and evenings with them since. And of course, we introduced them to Paul. Stewart invited them to his lecture and presentation. Fitrah and Koko came, spent the whole day there and participated in the group discussions. Since Paul has been working on this project with Stewart, he acted as Stewart’s interpreter and did an excellent job.
Last night dinner and photos of Stewarts presentation and work shop
Last evening, we all (including Paul) had dinner together, and Fitrah said, they needed to deliver something to a friends home and invited us to join them and that their friend would like to meet us. We joined them.
Well, their friend is the Sultan’s son, Firman Mudafar Sjah, SE. We said, “Well, yes” although we wondered if we were dressed appropriately. When we arrived at his home that is next to the palace we took off our shoes and entered. Firman was waiting for us with his 2 daughters and I felt like I was walking into one of my Omani friends’ homes. It smelled like it and had the same energy. This is part of the gate into his home.
Firman is a soft-spoken, gracious, gentle soul type of person. He said he was honored that we came to visit him. Really? We were the ones honored. We visited for a short time. There were these interesting small bowls with fresh herbs and small flowers pedals in them, with incense and a candle next to each container. Like a shrine. Firman explained that they are set out three times a week for prayer. Firman thought photos were in order. He then gave each of us a gift and invited us to the palace in the morning to watch a ceremony. Of course, we said, “Yes, we would be honored”
Meeting Firman and his daughters. This is a large poster in front of our hotel it took on a different meaning to me after this evening.
The arrangements were made, and Koko picked us up the next day. When we arrived at the palace the ceremony was about to begin. We were escorted in and sat in the back. Firman smiled at us when he saw us,
then sent someone over who asked us to follow him to sit in the front. Well, I’m not going to say no…. so up we went to sit in the front while everyone stared at us. After four weeks in Ternate, I was getting used to that. It’s pretty obvious I stick out big time no matter where I went with white hair and skin.
The ceremony was for the youth who have finished their studies in the Quran. They were dressed in colorful, festive clothes. And there were the spiritual leaders who had taught them, as well as younger ones just beginning the process of learning the Quran. There were also around forty noblemen in their special dress and a cap called kuma.
Firman once again came up to me and said to follow him to take photos. So I did, I took some photos but I wasn’t as comfortable as I’d liked to be up in front of all these people taking their photo. After a few shoots, I sat down in my chair and the ceremony began. The young adults and children began to read (more like chanting) from the Quran and at different times, all the noblemen would chant back. This went back and forth for some time. I had no idea what was being chanted, but I did know the words were very important to them; most likely about practicing the teachings of Mohammad on being kind and hospitable to others.
Since part of my mantra is “to be opened and receptive,” I sat, breathing quietly, and deeply inhaling the energy that penetrated the room around me. At one point, I begin to have tears run down my cheeks and I gave thanks for all that was there in that moment.
After about an hour of observing, Firman stood up, came to us and asked to follow him. So we all followed him into the palace. He explained that the ceremony would go on for a few hours and he wanted us to see the museum and show us the portraits of his father and grandfather. There were two Arabic writings framed between a photo of the crown, above a private entrance. With Firman standing next to me, I pointed at the two Aribic images and asked, “Does that say, The Glory of God?” He was surprised that I knew that. I explained that my mother had practiced the Baha’i Faith, how she had read the Quran and also wore a ring with the same Arabic writing on it. He and I talked for twenty minutes, really connecting in such a lovely way. We talked of our mothers and how their influence played a big role in our attitude about life. My heart was full.
It was time to leave, but first, we all took more photos. Firman told me that he would like to stay in contact with me because he felt we had the same point of view about life. I agreed I would do that through his friend—and now mine—Koko. We were about to walk out when Koko said to me, “People want photos with you, and Firman wants to talk with you.” So I went back in, had more photos taken, and Firman once again asked me to stay in contact with him. What a lovely way to end our visit to Ternate. I kind of hated to leave, wishing I could stay and nourish my new relationships. It was difficult to say goodbye.
I now want to introduce you to Kris Syamsudin.
When Fitrah and Koko were taking us around the island our first day together they brought us up to ‘Cengkeh Afo’ managed by Cengkeh Afo and Gamalama spices community; the area with the oldest clove trees in the world. CENGKEH AFO MEANS CLOVE TREE. Kris has been working with the Tongole people of Ternate to create a tourism opportunity to visit some of the oldest clove trees on the “spice island”. Kris, a native of eastern Indonesia and Ternate, is an employee of the North Maluku Provincial office of Tourism and creator of a wonderful cultural tourism opportunity in Ternate. When Kris and Stewart met they quickly realized Stewart is working with some of the same people Kris had originally began to work with a few years prior and Kris was developing the type of low-impact cultural tourism that complements the Marine Protected Area nature-based tourism Stewart is recommending for the MPAs. After 40 minutes of their discussion, I suggest continuation at a dinner together. We ended up seeing Kris as much as possible. He also came to Stewarts presentation and workshop. Stewart and Kris became partners in conceptualizing successful community based tourism in the small traditional communities on the small islands in the North Maluku MPA areas.
This cultural tourism destination on the slopes of Gamalama is still in development. It’s the community working together to create this area. The location is on a steep, narrow road leading up mount Gamalama volcano through residential areas, with gardens and adjacent forests where we saw harvesting of nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon. Walking up to the destination area, we came to a bamboo fence that was quite intriguing.
And the first of the two oldest Clove trees is standing healthy to be viewed by all visitors. 200 years old they say.
Beyond this tree is more bamboo fencing leading to different areas to visit. I followed the fence to the right, watching women working in the gardens next to a very cool bamboo structure which was a traditional kitchen. The ladies were inside cooking and out doors there was a small fire with bamboo standing upright inside a bed of coals. This is how they used to cook their food.
I noticed a very long, narrow structure, an aqueduct made from long bamboo cut in half leading into the forest as if suspended in mid-air. This piping is connected to a “natural spring” and the water comes down this bamboo into the kitchen and drips into a large barrel.
I then walked to another bamboo structure that looked like an open T pee which is a platform for guests to rest and to eat on. In the same location a small bamboo building with a ceiling but open walls that is also for tourist to sit and to eat. They were in the process of building a higher platform that will be used as a viewing area looking out onto the city of Ternate and the ocean.
These are students from the University who are in Architectural design and are learning from the master bamboo builder. They were all hanging around like young people do and I asked if they’d sit on this platform and pretend they were studying. They all giggled and agreed.
Up the mountain a little there is another bamboo building with a table and benches to eat. These bamboo structures are connected with twine like material made from the fibers of a palm tree. They did not use nails or screws.
To get to the next oldest Clove tree takes a bit of a hike while passing by nutmeg trees bursting with fruit of the nut. While walking up the path I began to feel as though I’m in the jungle. I have done this hike 3 times and began to see lizards and we came across a cinnamon tree that had been cut down and the cinnamon bark had been stripped off. We finally get to this old clove tree and it’s dead. It has been decaying for some time now and eventually there will only be one that is still alive and well. Kris and the villagers will do everything possible to preserve it.
Hours before our flight Stewart, Paul and I decided we needed to go back up and see Kris and have lunch. It is necessary to call hours ahead because the cooking technique is a different process and needs time. I’ve never had such a meal. The presentation was so impressive and traditional and the flavors were something I’ve never experienced. All wonderful.
The lady in the back with a basket on her back carried the bamboo to our location. The woman in the fore front is taking the bamboo and pouring the contents in them into the empty bamboo containers all lined with banana leaves.
To come up with the recipes Kris interviewed all the older people of the village to learn what foods they used and how it all was prepared. They flavors and textures were amazing just plain Excellent. Kris is working closely with the community and teaching them how the tourist industry will help them make an income and show people the traditional life style of the people of Indonesia.
I loved this bamboo chair and appreciated how it was made. Drying nutmeg on the streets. And our last visit with kris.
I suggested making items for sale that people would buy for souvenirs. Like the bamboo containers they serve the food on. And the chair.
Kris has an amazing personality and is working hard to help develop tourism in Ternate. His spirit soars and the people there are so thankful to him. Kris lives with his mother and some nieces and nephews; he believes strongly in the family unit. He has received fellowships to come to the US (university of Rhode Island) to get his masters degree in marine tourism. If this goes through he’ll be in Rhode Island for a year. I’d love to see this happen for him, it would be great to have him visit and meet as many of my friends as possible.
Sauntering new roads with Ruby Begin reading from the bottom Oct 2016 
What adventures! And what great ambassadors you and Steward are, Ruby. Well done and thank you so much for sharing.
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Quite the trip of a lifetime Ruby,! how fascinating to hear your stories and to see the pictures along side them!!
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