Gamalama volcano Ternate, Indonesia
Signs of the activity of Gamalama
(at first I kept thinking I was looking at clouds but sometimes it steam I see coming out)
A little background about Ternate. Ternate is an autonomous city that sits at the base of Gamalama volcano. It last erupted in 2015. The edge of the crater is very hot underfoot because it’s still active. Sulphur gas blows across the peak continuously. There is hiking up to the volcano; the paths go through some plantations that grow nutmeg and cloves. They say it is a very fragrant hike.
Ternate’s population is around 250,000 and is one of the oldest Muslim kingdoms in Indonesia, established in 1257. Around 95% of the population is Islamic. There are few people here that speak English. Everyone is very friendly.
The purpose of this trip:
Indonesia is part of the Coral Triangle and includes 2% of the global ocean and 76% of the known coral reefs. Since the population is growing and the economy expanding, the marine resources are being threatened by coastal development, pollution and over-fishing. Indonesia has recently committed to establishing 20 million hectares of Marine Protected areas but do not have experience and capabilities to manage and protect these areas from the threats.
Stewart has 35 years’ experience managing protected areas in the USA and worldwide. He was asked by the US government to assist the Indonesian government and non-government organizations in developing management strategies and capacities for these areas. They are viewing some of these areas, then formulating and presenting recommendations in meetings and conferences hosted by the Indonesian government, who asked for this assistance.
The people here have been welcoming and appreciative, and Stewart expects this to be a worthwhile contribution to their efforts and to the environment.
Stewart is so pleased to be working with a wonderful young man (22 years old) named Paul Eka, who is an intern from Bali. Paul is playing a big role as an interpreter and has good input to the project. Lucky for us because he speaks English and is a delight to be around. When they are not working, the three of us explore the island and city together. Once again, I’ve managed to become friends with another young man who is another big-time surfer. Go figure.
The perfect situation here would have been to stay at an Airbnb or a Home Stay. We had been looking on line while in the US but had decided to wait until we got here to see where and what conditions these places were in. After a few days of hiring a driver and having Paul, make phone calls for us we didn’t find anything that would work. Some places where horrendous… making a jail cell look attractive. Some places that advertised “private bath” had a bucket of water with a scoop for showering. We are now temporary residents at the hotel until April 4th, which is fine. A very nice view of the volcano and we will be well cared for here. They also serve a huge breakfast. It’s more like a dinner buffet. So I’m eating noodles and veggies for breakfast, but skipping the fish since that is what we usually have at night.
Looking out from our balcony
View looking out from the front of hotel, the lobby, where breakfast is served
Looking down at pool from room
My first day alone in Ternate I walked with Stewart to the office and met all the people he is working with. I then took off alone and decided I’d go downhill to begin my exploring. Of course I stood out big time while passing peoples homes, schools and businesses that are contacted to their homes. Usually someone would notice me and then call out to others inside as I stop to say hello while catching my breath and chat, (as much as one can with the communication barrier.) They always want to know where I am from and I do say the USA.
I stopped to admire this cucumber and needed up meeting these lovely ladies. They invited me into a shaded area which I accepted and then noticed how they take care of these smaller pots. Clever, I’d say.
These children were so precious and did not know what to think of me
We would share photos and laugh and then off I’d go. Waving goodbye. leaving very happy people excitedly talking to one another. This happens so much that my walk was taking forever in the hot sun and not getting too far. I did walk past an area where there are vegetable gardens growing next to their home. I was impressed how throughly they are tended to.
And many little tiny restaurants where the food is set out in front of a window so people could see what is on the menu for the day. If I was to eat there it would be first thing in the morning when the food has just been prepared, not at the end of the day. By the time I got back to the hotel; which is on a hill I have ended my walk in the hotter time of the day going up hill and my air-conditioned room is more than welcoming. I now take these walks regularly.
Taking a walk in this city is not easy. Pedestrians are not considered so I have to be so careful due to many factors. There are large holes that I could fall through and end up in the open drainage that flows below the road. Or I could trip over rocks, loose bricks, tree roots, piles of loose garbage, etc. AND THEN the motor bikes and vans.
There are so many motor bikes on this island. Everyone is driving them, there are bikes that are Motor bike taxi’s. Sometimes there will be 4 people on them with a small child or baby in between the adults sound asleep. It is very dangerous because these drivers have no since of road courtesy for walkers or for that matter other bikes,vans and cars. What makes me nervous it that everyone is looking at me walking by and they are not paying attention to their driving. YIKES…
To give an example this is a small group at stop sign.
There are also these small blue vans that drive around some with very creative paintings and lighting inside and out. Many of the vans have music, loud fast beat music with lights that move with the rhythm of the beat. There is enough room for 7 people in van. They stop where ever and when ever someone waves them down and for a small fee people are driven to their designated destination. Stewart and I usually take this transportation if not a private driver.
One day, Paul, Stewart and I hired a driver and drove around this small island following the coastline. (Which is the only way you can go since there are no roads going through the volcano!) There are two lakes here. One, Lake Ngade is small and has a fish farm on it.
The other, Lake Tolire, is on the opposite side of the volcano and is green. To view this lake, one drives up in the hills and looks down at it. There is a steep banking to the lake and the story is told that there are white alligators in it. The people are superstitious of this and no one goes on this lake. I can see why as the green water is not inviting.
In the distance is the volcano I see from my room, this is the back side where you can is where it erupted in 2012.
As we were driving along this winding road, we had our windows rolled down to feel the ocean breeze. Going through small villages people would notice us white folks through the car window and wave, smile, and laugh when we would wave back to them. That, in itself, is a thrill; to see the joy it brings to them. What I noticed is how simply these people live. It doesn’t appear that they have water or power. Some homes had garbage around them and around others (even shacks) I noticed the residents sweeping the ground using a palm branch as a broom, keeping their yard tidy. Motor bikes drive through the villages selling fruits and vegetables, and trucks with ice piled in the back park on the side of the street where the villagers gather to buy fish.
Jikomalamu Beach and Lagoon is where we rested. This is where people dive and snorkel. We had brought our masks & snorkels but did not feel up to it that day; we were still dealing with some jet lag. Here, there are many restaurants built on stakes resting over the water’s edge; just open huts with a tiny kitchen. We picked one to go to and Paul bumped into a friend from the island of Morotai where he is living. What a coincidence. I spent some time standing on the deck looking into the water where there was some coral. I saw beautiful colored fish swimming around and watched the divers jump into the water and swim away. Across the waterway, Paul pointed out a very small light-colored beach and explained that is the only white beach on the island. The rest of the beaches are black, made from the lava, and there isn’t much beach on the shore line around rest of the island. We will return to this place to snorkel.
One thing I noticed on this drive were motor bikes parked on the side of the road, but there was no path or building to be seen. I wondered why would a bike be here? Then, in the distance among the trees, I spotted men digging into the middle of small hills using a machete. They were digging out lava rocks. The size of rock seemed to be no larger than what they could lift and carry to a large pile near the road. I’m not sure what is done with this rock, but I’ve noticed where there is construction there are piles of black sand, gravel, and small stones, all used to make bricks as well as mortar to build walls. These larger stones are probably used for stone walls and possibly building roads. All this material is from lava.
To drive around the island would take 2 hours driving at 35 mph (slower around sharp curves and dodging motor bikes). The island covers 43 square miles. This gives you an idea of the size of this volcanic island. We had taken our time which made our trip around 4 hours.
We arrived back in the city and visited Fort Tolukko, built in the eighteenth century by the Portuguese. It was built to protect the port and keep control of the clove trade, primarily from the Spanish who occupied nearby Tidore Island, another Sultanate. At this time, Maluku was the only island that grew clove spices. There’s an old couple living on this property who manage it and keep it well cared for, and a good view looking out onto the other islands and the city.
This was also a good place to see how local people do their laundry. I needed some laundry done and wondered who and how that would happen. After watching a while, I knew I had to start asking questions to find a place where my clothes would not be ruined. I did find someone across from the hotel. Easy… and my underwear has never been so nicely folded.
Sauntering new roads with Ruby Begin reading from the bottom Oct 2016 